Kalinga Mountain Ride
Kalinga is a mountainous province in the heart of the Philippine Cordillera, nestled among mountain peaks that reach up to two-thousand meters and a half in height. Kalinga has 7 municipalities scattered throughout the mountainous terrain of the province. The chico river is a big part of the geography of Kalinga, passing through from its source in Mountain Province before it empties into the Cagayan River. In recent years, the Chico has slowly become a popular destination for white water kayakers and rafters from the Philippines and beyond. Among them, Steve Rogers is probably one of the more well-known proponents of the growing community of enthusiasts of river paddling. The best time to visit Kalinga and Mountain Province for white water is late in the year, before the end of November as the river is usually at its optimal level during that time.
I travelled to Bontoc in Mountain Province before continuing on to my destination in TInglayan, a small municipality of Kalinga along the famed Chico River. Tinglayan is the jump-off for the village of Buscalan where Wang-Od lives, a frail old lady who is said to be the last practitioner of the Kalinga art of tattooing called Batek. Tribes in Kalinga have always used tattoos as a rite of passage, on becoming a woman for the female members of the tribe and the mark of becoming a true warrior for the men. Often, Kalinga warriors received the tattoo as a reward for taking the life of an enemy. These warriors were the feared Kalinga headhunters, tribal warriors of Northern Luzon who have generated their own place in modern mythology for accounts of their bravery and notoriety in battle.
Tinglayan in Kalinga is roughly 400 kilometres from Metro Manila by road, 500 kilometres if you go via Tabuk the provincial capital of Kalinga and it takes 12 hours to get there. The roads are relatively well-paved from Manila to Baguio City, Banawe, or Tabuk in the far north. Another option is to fly into Tuguegarao City and then take a jeepney to Tabuk before continuing on to Tinglayan. The ride from Tugegarao to Tinglayan will take about 3-4 hours depending on road conditions.
Victory Liner operates daily between Cubao and Pasay in Manila and Baguio City in the North. Alternatively, Autobus (Dimasalang cor. Laong-laan St., Sampaloc Manila Tel: 632 7432227 or 7436673) and Dangwa Tranco (832 Aurora Blvd cor Driod St., Cubao, Quezon City Tel: 632 410 1991) that go all the way to Banawe. The trip lasts 9 hours but the driver usually stops every 2 hours for snacks and other necessities. Buses leave Manila 10pm Daily and then arrive in Banawe early the next day. From there, catch another bus to Bontoc. There are a number of affordable hotels in Bontoc for an overnight stay. I’ve stayed in Churyaa Hotel and it’s a great place to stop before continuing on to Sagada or Kalinga. Visit also the Bontoc Museum near the post office, look for Sister Marcel the museum curator, she’s a nun but also a genuine Ifugao.
Tinglayan is roughly 2 and a half hours away from Bontoc by jeepney. Remember to find a guide before leaving Bontoc, it will make travelling and finding your way in Kalinga easier. Try getting in touch with Francis Pa-in through the hotel, he knows his way aound Kalinga very well and can provide access to many places in the area. Francis showed me around while I was there and I was lucky enough to meet Wang-Od in the village of Buscalan in Tinglayan. He also took me to see the hot spring and the river in Tulgao. It requires a bit of trekking to get there but the view and the sights and sounds of the village is worth the trip. If you have a mountain bike with you, as I did, I would recommend a ride up and down the dirt road going to Tulgao and also Buscalan. It is also possible to ride from Bontoc or Tinglayan all the way to another town called Balbalasang where you can visit pristine pine forests as it must have been in Sagada before tourists arrived. From there, just retrace your steps back to Bontoc or go through Tabuk and then the airport in Tuguegarao City. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can also try riding all the way to Bangued in Abra from Balbalasang. Word of caution though, the Kalinga – Abra road is very isolated and it is prone to closures due to landslides. Watch a VIDEO of my Kalinga ride HERE.
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